&SONS | Italian Bacaro Fare by Beppe DeVito

Joining the row of restaurants along Nankin Street of China Square Central is a ‘bacaro’ or wine bar that is inspired by the historical taverns of Venice. Sporting a dual personality of a cafeteria in the day and a bar serving cocktails at night, &SONS is all about affordable prices, comforting and hearty Italian classics, and a stellar dining experience.

I first encountered the food from &SONS at SAVOUR 2014 where they made their debut having just opened 3 months before. Their generous portions certainly stood out among the rest during the gourmet food festival but most memorable of all had to be their Linguine, Crab & Nduja, which blew me away with its wicked combination of perfectly al dente pasta and chunks of crab meat. They serve it with Tagliolini now at &SONS and it is still every bit as good as I remember it to be.

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As mentioned earlier, &SONS prides itself as a cafeteria during lunch time by offering a menu of 16 large Italian plates priced between $8-$12. Portions are definitely hearty and the variety is adequate with choices ranging from Grilled Red Snapper, Baked Chicken Cacciatore, Grilled Beef Sirloin Steak and Linguine with Seafood Marinara.

We tried the Bucatini Carbonara with Homemade Guanciale $8 which was an absolute steal because this plate feeds two easily. My first time trying Bucatini pasta and its consistency reminded me a little of ‘udon’ noodles, while the guanciale (a fattier, saltier and richer version of pancetta) added to the overall dish some great flavour. I enjoyed it but its heaviness calls for some sharing.

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Another highlight from the lunch menu is this Pork Milanese with Rucola & Parmigiano $9. $9 for such a huge slab of breaded pork cutlet! Really? I did not think you could find mains for less than $10 in restaurants these days, let alone such huge portions and in the CBD. But yes you can… only at &SONS.

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At night, &SONS transforms into a watering hole with an extensive list of exclusively Italian wines, craft beers, cocktails and malt whiskies. Complimenting these tipples from the bar is an entirely different dinner menu of small plates featuring homemade pastas, seafood, charcoal grills and home-baked breads.

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If you are up for something unique and different, then these Baccala Cakes, Sea Urchin Sabayon $13 come highly recommended. Essentially deep fried mashed salted cod crumbed with black squid ink accompanied by a creamy rich béchamel sauce which spells sinful all over, the combination was seriously interesting and perhaps even out of the world- in a good way.

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A lighter alternative would be the Asparagus, Garlic & Anchovy Sauce $9 from the charcoal grill which sounds simple but made outstanding with fried golden garlic flakes and drops of beetroot puree. The Wagyu Beef Tagliata, Salsa Verde $26 too was hard to fault with its thinly sliced Josper-grilled Wagyu beef slices that were so tender and rested on a bed of mesclun leaves.

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&SONS is also the only restaurant in Singapore to make its own specialty cured meats and salami on-site. So you cannot leave without trying some spicy Salame Dolce, sweet Piccante and salty Black Pork Capocollo, which pairs beautifully with their Garlic & Herb Foccacia that is baked fresh daily. We hear that salami goes exquisitely well with alcohol and would be a great snack to match those drinks especially now that it is World Cup season!

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In short, &SONS with their all Italian kitchen and service crew brings great energy and competition to our local dining scene. Prices are affordable and the food is authentic. I would wholeheartedly recommend making a trip down for their lunch specials which strike an irresistible bargain. Good deals ought to be shared.

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#01-19 China Square Central
20 Cross Street, Singapore
Tel: 6221 3937

Opening hrs:
Monday to Friday: 11.30am to midnight
Saturday: 5.30pm to 1am
Closed on Sunday

Singapore

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